Darjeeling Mail - উত্তরবঙ্গের ঐতিহ্য - Joydeep Roy

17 CHAPTERS OF MY CIRCULAR JOURNEY
1. PLANNING, RE-PLANNING; RE-RE-PLANNING and so on.......
“When it comes to planning and executing a trip, you tend to do it well”; one well-wisher of mine said, I agree with that to some extent. With a list of places is in mind, all available options are explored, all permutations and combinations calculated; and finally according to the convenience of the travellers, the plan is readied. Yes, I can do that much; It is the execution that fails horribly sometimes. My friends Sriram and Sri listed out many options,...
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exploring the Malabar Coast from Mangalore to Shoranur, moving along the Akola-Khandwa-Mhow line, a re-visit to the MG sections of Saurashtra; before finally zeroing in on a simple Bangalore – Dudhsagar – Goa – Mandovi – Mumbai – back home trip. Well, that was simple enough. What remained to be seen was how and to what extent successful, this trip was going to be.
2. BOOKING OF TICKETS
After a prolonged debate, when the dates were finally decided; booking of tickets turned out to be a little more than just easy. “Dei I will board Rani Chennamma and join you guys in UBL da”, my protests fell into deaf ears. My friends were adamant that we should travel together right from Guntakal, where we were to board the Slip portion of the Amaravati Express. They couldn’t come to Bangalore; one of them had an exam that morning; I couldn’t go to Chennai; it was my mother’s birthday. After much debate and discussion; the tickets were finally booked and we all were ready to leave on one fine Sunday of June.
3. THE JINX STRIKES; Again......
After having spent a wonderful day with my mother; I prepared to leave for Yeshvantpur, the jinxed station as my mother would time and again call it; just to tease me. To be on the safer side, I left from home a good three hours ahead of my train’s scheduled departure time. The usual changeover of buses was done at Majestic bus station, just outside SBC. I was even contemplating taking any available train from SBC to YPR. But all options had departed already. Green Line Metro, why you no reach SBC yet??? After entering Yeshvantpur from Tumkur road entrance at 19:30, bought a water bottle from the nearest stall, and comfortably forgot the bottle there itself. Realization dawned on me nearly 40minutes later; when thirst parched my throat and I was on pf1. Well, one could argue that I could have walked back and claimed the bottle which I had paid for; lack of interest struck me just then. I simply bought another bottle and let the station atmosphere sync in; just to distract myself. The Jinx had struck and it was just about the beginning.....
4. THE FIRST LEG OF THE JOURNEY
Within minutes of my reaching YPR, the daily Superfast Express bound for Howrah departed behind a relatively new WAP7 from LGD shed – 30452. The entire station was bustling with activity. Barring pf5, all other platforms were busy for the next hour or so. The rake of the Delhi bound KSK was shunted into pf6 at quarter past 8; while its counterpart pulled into pf4 about 20mins later. The Kannur bound express departed from pf2 at 20:00hrs sharp, led by a WDM3D from Erode. My ride till Guntakal, the Solapur Superfast Express was waiting for its starter on pf1 led by a WDM3D from Pune. Meanwhile the clouds decided to open up for a brief period, the station, its occupants, both man& machine – were completely drenched. Bangalore Rajdhani came to an unscheduled halt on pf2 and left. The PC staff could be seen readying themselves to serve Dinner. Just as we were pulling out; the Kochuveli bound Garibrath was shunted into pf3 – 2mins before its scheduled departure time.
20:58 – The Journey Starts.
5. SLEEPLESS NIGHTS & MOSQUITO BITES – Guntakal Junction.
After getting down at Guntakal at 01:40hrs, loss of sleep for an additional 2hours was warranted. I set the alarm for 01:00hrs and successfully managed to get up 15mins ahead of it. How I manage to do so while travelling on trains, is something which I haven’t been able to figure out as yet. There were three crossings between Kalluru and Guntakal; Mysuru bound Hampi Express led by a UBL WDP4; Bangalore bound SBC Raj led by a KJM WDP4D& the Gorakhpur Yeshvantpur Superfast led by MLY WDM3A twins. The run between Kalluru Jn and Guntakal Jn. was dull. We had accumulated a delay of 30mins while pulling into Guntakal pf2. Our counterpart was waiting for us on pf1 led by a WDG3A from Pune. By then, my friends had confirmed that their Egmore – Kacheguda express had reached Gooty on time, and they had boarded the Haripriya express for the short ride to Guntakal. Tired, weary, eyes ready to shut at any instant; I somehow pulled myself from pf2 to the waiting area at GY end of pf4. That wait before my connecting train arrived seemed like eternity.
6. SLUMBER IN THE YARD – A First time experience.
The funda of the Slip portion of Amaravati Express became clear that day. Co-incidentally, the train my friends were in; and our ride to Goa arrived simultaneously. AJJ WAP1 hauled Haripriya Express and GY WDP4D hauled Kacheguda Yeshvantpur Express pulled into pf4& pf5 respectively at exactly 03:30hrs. Thankfully two of them had managed to scamper all the way from the S3 coach they had boarded at BAY end to our B3 at GY end. 3 coaches come attached with the Kacheguda Yeshvantpur Express, an SL, a 3AC& an SLR; these got uncoupled at Guntakal and were shunted to the Yard, where they took rest for the next 1hour; while their carrier rake – Amaravati Express from Howrah was on its way. Quite a few people; well aware of this routine perhaps, scampered into the Coaches before it got shunted away to adjacent line in the yard by a GTL WDM3D. 15mins is all the staff at Guntakal had to complete the procedure of removing the slip coaches, and coupling the KJM EMD for the further run upto YPR. And they did manage it quite efficiently that day. No sooner had our coaches been shunted into the yard; the KJM EMD was coupled and in a few minutes the Yeshvantpur Express was on its way. Barring a couple requesting us to give a berth till Bellary; there were no more hassles that night. The last thing I remember seeing was a pair of GY WDG3A baldies pulling into pf3 with our train to Goa; the Amaravati Express. It had arrived bang on time. Our coaches were shunted out almost immediately; and after getting coupled to the main rake, we were on our way.
7. HUBLI DIVISON; Late Breakfast, Early Lunch and Delayed Amaravati.
When I finally woke up from my slumber and went to freshen up; we were dashing past the barren black soil fields of Ballari – Hubli section. Doubling was done in patches. Twin EMD hauled Coal rakes made their presence felt every now and then, this is one section which is overloaded with EMDs of the Goods kind; ALCos were either restricted to Passenger duty or once in a blue moon would be spotted at the helm of freights. Quite a few passengers crossed us that day; but the most surprising crossing of all was that of the Hubballi – Ballari Passenger. While we were looped into the only platform line for an unscheduled halt in Navalgund road; the Hubballi Ballari Passenger train came to a halt on the mainline with the other loop occupied by a BOXN rake. The localities had already positioned themselves on either side of the mainline, and after a few minutes; both trains headed their respective ways. The rest of the run till Hubballi was a breeze. Overnight, we had somehow accumulated a delay of 50minutes; thus delaying our breakfast to well beyond 9am. Tasty Dosas, Soft Idlis and Crunchy Vadas were on the menu; and some piping hot tea to wash them down completed what we could maybe call a ‘GOOD MORNING’.
Pf3 of the SWR Headquarters was undergoing renovation. As we pulled into pf1; I could see the Bangalore bound fast Passenger depart from pf5 led by a freshly repainted KJM WDG4. SWR has churned out this new livery for its Goods EMDs and it does look strikingly appealing from a distance. During the course of this trip, we spotted a few UBL EMDs as well; in the new dark blue livery. KJM WDP4 was idling on pf2 with the express from the land of Nizams – Secunderabad. After a near 20min halt, as we were pulling out, another passenger entered pf5; led by an ET WDM3D. It was time to move towards the first goal of this trip – Dudhsagar.
8. CURVES and FORESTS; The Picturesque Hubballi – Castlerock line.
Did I forget to mention? Our Lunch order was taken even as we were approaching Hubballi.
“Kahan Deliver hoga bhayya?” Where will it give delivered brother?
‘Sirjee, Londa ke paas de denge’ Sir, we will give it near Londa.
A Breakfast at 09:45hrs; and a lunch at 11:15hrs; either we would sleep the rest of the day, or ajeernam guaranteed. Thankfully neither of it happened. There were only three crossings in the Hubballi Castle Rock stretch; KYN WDG3A led Mumbai LTT Hubballi Express at Dharwad, KJM WDP4 led Chalukya Express at Tavaragatti and KJM WDM3A led Vasco Velankanni Express at Tinaighat. The rest of the route was green enough to just let our spirits sync into the nature. The curves of this route deserve a special mention; mainly because of their surprising appearances. It was the first time all three of us were traversing this route. The faint yet shrill honk of the GY baldie in the lead; the near 90 degree turns to the left and right, time and again; the picturesque landscape; all these things make me recollect my mother’s words
“Indha maadhri edathula veedu katti settle aaganum da” We should build a house& settle down in such a place
Now I understood why; the serenity here in this stretch was really soothing, if there was an unscheduled halt; I could just walk down to any patch of grass, lie down and fall asleep in an instant.
Rakes of the Hubballi Chennai Central Special/Express were parked as far as Alnavar Jn; the under construction line to Dandeli bifurcated from here. Londa arrived; and so did our lunch; the boys ordered Veg Biryani and got Pulav instead. After seeing that I dreaded opening my Veg meals; and my lunch wasn’t any better either. Rice was half cooked; Rasam lacked salt and the buttermilk had more coriander than liquid. The only respite was the Chappati – Subji Combination which were surprisingly tasty amongst the other tasteless dishes. With a heavy heart, I threw away more than half the lunch; one of the few occasions in my life that I had done so willingly.
Londa – Miraj Passenger was waiting in pf1 of Londa Junction with a PUNE WDM3A Pune in charge of the train. We departed after a 4minute halt. The line veering away towards Miraj seemingly climbed an incline as it bifurcated to the right. Or were we descending as we diverted to the left?
9. CASTLEROCK – KULEM; a first time visit to the BRAGANZA Ghats and Dudhsagar
The run upto Castlerock was mesmerizing. The weather was neither sunny nor was it raining heavily. Yet the brightness of the white sky somewhat seemed to blind my vision; and my friends assumed I was frowning due to the delay despite being surrounded a wonderful landscape. The stations of Castlerock and Kulem were home for multiple sets of EMD triplets. We spotted the new blue livery EMDs and the classic Yellow livery EMDs of UBL shed throughout this trip. The descent into the ghats began after a 10min halt at Castlerock. The presence of twin ALCos meant no brakers for our Amaravati Express. The baldie gave a shrill but long honk announcing the beginning of the descent. The monsoon rains brought out the best greenery in the surrounding; Green of every imaginable shade could be spotted. The dried leaves, which on any other day would have been swept away in our big and noisy cities added to the attraction here in Braganza. The descent was restricted to a cautious 30kmph speed throughout. Every possible device which can take a photograph was out; every door and window occupied.
Post the infamous ban on alighting at the Dudhsagar; the passers-by had to contend themselves to clicking from a moving train. Trekking was a strict no-no; although I did see some DSLR wielding youngsters at Caranzol and Sonalium. Anyways, the train twisted and turned as it descended nearly 1700 feet over a span of 28kms, the adrenaline kicked in real good; my only disappointment was not spotting the Dudhsagar in its true element; gushing down at full force. Once we crossed Dudhsagar station, the excitement notched up a bit; and after crossing the penultimate tunnel, the train curved to the right. The screams inside the tunnel gave way to the ‘Oooo’s and the ‘Aaaah’s; age irrespective; almost all were gawking at the falls; aptly named the ‘Ocean of Milk’. The fall was quite deep; the view was fantastic; Mission Dudhsagar accomplished. After crossing the viewpoint, the three of us were the only people at the door. The rest of the crowd went back in; “Arre, ab kya rakha hai dekhne ke liye?” grumbled a few as they went in.
‘Picture abhi baaki hai mere dost’. I mumbled to myself...
To be continued.....